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Thread: From the equaror to the holes (scrap series)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
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    Leverkusen, Germany
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    Default From the equaror to the holes (scrap series)

    This bead is using the random striped canes from scrap and a core from leftovers. A good heat control and slightly marvering in shape are the techniques we need. The credits for these techniques go to Jim Smircich, Mister "let-it-flow".


    We start with a 3mm (1/8") mandrel and 3-4" coated working end. With clear (or any mixture) we start to make the preliminary footprint about 1" long in the middle of the coated area. The glass has just to "moisten" the clay by now. Next is to make a wheel about 1/4" wide and 1/2" to 3/4" in radius. If you want to work with light colors cover the edge and the top half of the sides with white. You can make a short bicone with the same footprint and radius as well.

    We just preparted our "canvas", let's start with color! Choose two or more different striped canes of a color family (hot colors, blues or greens...) and start to cover the edge of the wheel (bicone) with heavy dots. Leave gaps in the first color to fill them with dots of the second (third...). The whole edge has to be covered well with color, because it has to reach both ends after the next steps! Keep the whole wheel warm enough, the "miostened" part of the mandrel doesn't shatter.

    Here comes the "Smircich part" of the work: Heat the edge of the wheel, first and let the heat work it's way down to the mandrel. Keep the glass well centred and let it move into a ball shape or a lemon shape. You can help the color spreading out by marvering the ball into a short cylinder. The cylinder is just as long as the initial foot print or slightly longer. Let the glass slightly cool to stabilize the "other end" while heating the hand side, only. Tilt the hand side down and guide the hot glass down the mandrel. The superheated surface will flow faster than the side and the color streches and wraps itself into the dimple at the end of the bead. Marver this side into a narrow cone with a nice dimple to cool the glass and give the bead a raw shape. Repeat the heating and guiding the color on the other end by tilting the hand end up. Shape a symmetrical bicone, first and guide the glass into an elongated olive shape.

    The bead is redy for the cooling procedure. Or you can decorate it with contrasting colors or using it as a "canvas" for more elaborated designs. A typical bead is 1 1/2" long ans 3/4" in diameter. You can adjust the size down to about 1" length and 1/2" in diameter and up untill you loose control over the weight or heat.


    Have fun with this!
    Last edited by Kuehlmorgen_D; 06-18-2013 at 05:57 PM. Reason: Typo in headline (can't edit it)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Leverkusen, Germany
    Posts
    1,063

    Default The spacer version...

    This pattern can be used to make spacers, too.

    Since the volume of the bead is smaller we don't need the premade footprint and start on a 2mm mandrel with a pea sized bead. Just "throw" some glass there because it's just the place to put fat dots from ouer striped rods. Next step is melting the whole thing into a decent donut-shape. Use your graphite paddle to marver the bead into shape. Watch for the ends and push them slightly in if they got wobbly edges.

    These beads are a nice project to get rid of waste glass from an other project that needs colorwise fitting spacers anyway. If you add small dots and pull them into points to fill the gaps with shorter points untill there is a "sun pattern" you'll get finer details. With few bigger drops (or chunks if the rod "spits") you get a more generous distribution of the pattern.



    What's your favourite way to make random patterned beads?

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